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Looper's Delight
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thank you very much for this detailed "cookbook", Dennis! I should only mention, that "ring" is mostly understood as the second channel of a stereo Phone plug, while here is all mono and you were talking about ground or sleve or whatever they call it. > >Yes, you'll want to drill two holes, in the EFC-7. And that's a PHONE >jack >rather than a PHONO jack. Here's my attempt at detailed directions (from >memory)... > >1) Get all your parts before you begin work. A SPDT switch is the minimum >configuration required. A DPDT switch will be fine. If you want to use >the >modified EFC-7 as a footswitch, I highly recommend the switch listed >below. > recommended parts: > 1) one push-on/push-off switch, try GC Electronics: >http://www.gcwaldom.com/catalog.html > part no: 35-0490-0000. This switch has an indicator that >requires no power. It is a little > pricey but worth it, IMHO. The switch is also available from >other distributors. > 2) one high quality 1/4" phone jack, chassis mount. I've had >trouble with Radio Shack jacks. I'd > recommend a Switchcraft manufactured jack. > 3) insulated hook-up wire, 26 or 24 gauge, tinned > 4) optional washers or spacer for switch (see directions) > > tools: > 1) drill, drill bits, center punch. > 2) soldering iron, rosin-core solder > 3) wire cutters, needle-nose pliers > 4) ohmmeter, VOM, or continuity checker (optional) > >2) Make sure your switch will fit in the EFC-7 case. I mounted my switch >in >the upper right corner. The recommended switch is quite deep. I.e., it >requires a lot of clearance behind the panel. Disassemble the >EFC-7 case and try different switch locations. Make sure the switch will >fit when the EFC-7 is reassembled. > >The EFC-7 panel is rather thin so you may need to add a thick washer or >spacer between the switch and the >front panel. With the spacer/washer in place, the switch protrudes >further >outside the case, giving the switch >more clearance inside, behind the panel. I found my spacer (a white >plastic >cylinder) in the screen door repair parts >of my local hardware store. I had to enlarge the hole but after that, it >worked fine. Depending on what you find, >you may also need to shorten you spacer. > >When you have a good location for the switch, mark it. Center punch the >location. > >3) Likewise, find a good location for the 1/4" phone jack. Mark it and >center punch the location. > >4) Start with small drill bits, say 1/8" inch diameter and drill the >switch >and jack holes. Gradually increase the hole >sizes until the switch and jack fit. > >5) Make sure you remove all the drill tailings and debur the holes. > >6) Mount the switch and jack. Using your eyeballs (less recommended) or >an >ohmmeter (more recommended), >find the correct contacts on the switch. Call them "common", "A", and >"B". >Before tightening the switch, rotate >it so that the correct contacts can be easily accessed. > >7) Connect the RING of the new jack to the RING of the existing jack. > >8) Disconnect the wire going to the TIP of the existing jack. Connect it >to >the "common" terminal on the switch. >Don't overcook the switch when you solder the wire as you can melt the >switch. If possible, use the needle-nose >pliers as a heat sink for the switch by using it to hold the terminal >between the switch and the soldering point. > >8) Connect the "A" switch terminal to the TIP of the existing jack. > >9) Connect the "B" switch terminal to the TIP of the new jack. > >10) Reassemble the EFC-7. Loop like crazy! > >Hope this helps (and is not insanely detailed)! Let me know if you've any >questions. > >Dennis Leas >------------------- >dennis@mdbs.com -- ---> http://Matthias.Grob.org