Syncronizing from a RC-20

[Matthias Grob <matthias@grob.org>]

I finally did the trick I recommended before here: Create a Sync-Out 
from the flashing LED to drive the BeatSync input of the EDP or maybe 
some other devices.

The nice thing about the RC-20 LED is that it always flashes in a 
reasonable speed, by subdividing the longer loops automatically.
In turn, its not even possible to make short, pumping loops with the RC-20!

I did the mod in Tim Crowe <seemso@directvinternet.com> 's unit and 
we tested it at the gig in Alameda which was quite nice actually. Tim 
does nice Djembe and other percussion loops and lives only two blocks 
away, I hope we can do more...
Once again, the lack of Feeback control on the RC-20 really limits 
the development of the music.
Since the RC-20 needs to be master, he had to start the first loop, 
which was only a problem when I finished a piece and he was in a deep 
discussion with Kim ;-)

Here is how its done:
Take off the lid and bend over the top PCB
The PCB that appears has a shielding metal on it that make things a 
bit more dificult, but you dont need to unsolder it. Back on the 
right is a multiplin connector and its pin5 goes to an R10. From the 
other end of this R10 you have to take the signal with a fine wire. 
Its a tricky solder point since its an SMD resistor and its almost 
under the shield.

Since Tim did not use the TriggerNextLoop or what connector, I put it on 
there.
There are 3 contacts to it.
The one closer to the boarder of the PCB is ground and usefull as is.
The one with the thin track is the hot to connect your wire to. Its 
easy to interrupt this short track.
The third one shortens the hot one if no connecter is inserted, so 
the LED goes out. Either you have to connect a dummy connector always 
or live without red LED or interrupt its connection with is less nice 
to do since its large. Or you interrupt the two white through plating 
points by drilling a little.

Or you find a space for some aditional connector.

There needs to be a resistor 1k...10k at the output. You can easily 
solder it to the connector, between hot and ground.

I know you want drawings... I hope they appear, right now I dont have 
conditions to care for this. :-(
Maybe you can convince Tim to shoot a picture of his unit ;-)
-- 


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