| So, for me the requirements for a footswitch are:
1) Cannot require batteries. 2) Must not have attached cable.
On the low rent side, I see this one from Hosa:
Their stuff is usually crap but how good does a switch housing need to be?
And there seems to be a British 'loopmasters' kind of joint called Bright Onion Pedals:
They have the dual latching and a mini dual latching. Not costly but by the time shipping is added, could be some ducats...
Phil On Mar 25, 2012, at 4:56 PM, William Walker wrote: I know Mr. Bill Walker has a nice, and small, piece from the Loop-Masters people, but I am loathe to get on a 6 month waitlist for them to build it... been there done that ;)
Actually Phil my nice loopmaster footswitch did not work properly with my Little Giant after its recent software upgrade until I had my local tech isolate the grounds on both switches which cost me extra money, the other thing annoying about them is though momentary in operation, they have an audible and physical click when being depressed. at this point I'd suggest two boss FS-u switches that can be attached to each other via the slick rail couplers on the sides. I have a bunch of those FSU's who's switches finally wore out but I'm tempted to order some tack switches and revive them, as they worked flawlessly for many years and are sturdy of build and relatively quit mechanically. As you can tell I'm a little over Loop master, I have a splitter box that suffers from the same problem and its lack of ground isolation caused me to think my stomp box overdrives were self oscillating until I realized it it was the loopmaster splitter box that was causing the issue. I also bought a stutter bomb from him that has that same shitty click-ity click switch in it that my 2 button foot switch has, at some point I will replace it with a smoother feeling switch so that it doesn't sound like a cricket is in the room when i use it. grumble grumble Bill
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