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Re: EFC-7 mod wiring diagram
thank you very much for this detailed "cookbook", Dennis!
I should only mention, that "ring" is mostly understood as the second
channel of a stereo Phone plug, while here is all mono and you were
talking about ground or sleve or whatever they call it.
>Yes, you'll want to drill two holes, in the EFC-7. And that's a PHONE
>rather than a PHONO jack. Here's my attempt at detailed directions (from
>1) Get all your parts before you begin work. A SPDT switch is the minimum
>configuration required. A DPDT switch will be fine. If you want to use
>modified EFC-7 as a footswitch, I highly recommend the switch listed
> recommended parts:
> 1) one push-on/push-off switch, try GC Electronics:
> part no: 35-0490-0000. This switch has an indicator that
>requires no power. It is a little
> pricey but worth it, IMHO. The switch is also available from
> 2) one high quality 1/4" phone jack, chassis mount. I've had
>trouble with Radio Shack jacks. I'd
> recommend a Switchcraft manufactured jack.
> 3) insulated hook-up wire, 26 or 24 gauge, tinned
> 4) optional washers or spacer for switch (see directions)
> 1) drill, drill bits, center punch.
> 2) soldering iron, rosin-core solder
> 3) wire cutters, needle-nose pliers
> 4) ohmmeter, VOM, or continuity checker (optional)
>2) Make sure your switch will fit in the EFC-7 case. I mounted my switch
>the upper right corner. The recommended switch is quite deep. I.e., it
>requires a lot of clearance behind the panel. Disassemble the
>EFC-7 case and try different switch locations. Make sure the switch will
>fit when the EFC-7 is reassembled.
>The EFC-7 panel is rather thin so you may need to add a thick washer or
>spacer between the switch and the
>front panel. With the spacer/washer in place, the switch protrudes
>outside the case, giving the switch
>more clearance inside, behind the panel. I found my spacer (a white
>cylinder) in the screen door repair parts
>of my local hardware store. I had to enlarge the hole but after that, it
>worked fine. Depending on what you find,
>you may also need to shorten you spacer.
>When you have a good location for the switch, mark it. Center punch the
>3) Likewise, find a good location for the 1/4" phone jack. Mark it and
>center punch the location.
>4) Start with small drill bits, say 1/8" inch diameter and drill the
>and jack holes. Gradually increase the hole
>sizes until the switch and jack fit.
>5) Make sure you remove all the drill tailings and debur the holes.
>6) Mount the switch and jack. Using your eyeballs (less recommended) or
>ohmmeter (more recommended),
>find the correct contacts on the switch. Call them "common", "A", and
>Before tightening the switch, rotate
>it so that the correct contacts can be easily accessed.
>7) Connect the RING of the new jack to the RING of the existing jack.
>8) Disconnect the wire going to the TIP of the existing jack. Connect it
>the "common" terminal on the switch.
>Don't overcook the switch when you solder the wire as you can melt the
>switch. If possible, use the needle-nose
>pliers as a heat sink for the switch by using it to hold the terminal
>between the switch and the soldering point.
>8) Connect the "A" switch terminal to the TIP of the existing jack.
>9) Connect the "B" switch terminal to the TIP of the new jack.
>10) Reassemble the EFC-7. Loop like crazy!
>Hope this helps (and is not insanely detailed)! Let me know if you've any