Re: EFC-7 mod wiring diagram

[Matthias Grob <matthias@grob.org>]

thank you very much for this detailed "cookbook", Dennis!

I should only mention, that "ring" is mostly understood as the second 
channel of a stereo Phone plug, while here is all mono and you were 
talking about ground or sleve or whatever they call it.

>
>Yes, you'll want to drill two holes, in the EFC-7.  And that's a PHONE 
>jack
>rather than a PHONO jack.  Here's my attempt at detailed directions (from
>memory)...
>
>1) Get all your parts before you begin work.  A SPDT switch is the minimum
>configuration required.  A DPDT switch will be fine.  If you want to use 
>the
>modified EFC-7 as a footswitch, I highly recommend the switch listed 
>below.
>     recommended parts:
>         1) one push-on/push-off switch, try GC Electronics:
>http://www.gcwaldom.com/catalog.html
>             part no: 35-0490-0000.  This switch has an indicator that
>requires no power.  It is a little
>             pricey but worth it, IMHO.  The switch is also available from
>other distributors.
>         2) one high quality 1/4" phone jack, chassis mount.  I've had
>trouble with Radio Shack jacks.  I'd
>             recommend a Switchcraft manufactured jack.
>         3) insulated hook-up wire, 26 or 24 gauge, tinned
>         4) optional washers or spacer for switch (see directions)
>
>     tools:
>         1) drill, drill bits, center punch.
>         2) soldering iron, rosin-core solder
>         3) wire cutters, needle-nose pliers
>         4) ohmmeter, VOM, or continuity checker (optional)
>
>2) Make sure your switch will fit in the EFC-7 case.  I mounted my switch 
>in
>the upper right corner.  The recommended switch is quite deep.  I.e., it
>requires a lot of clearance behind the panel.  Disassemble the
>EFC-7 case and try different switch locations.  Make sure the switch will
>fit when the EFC-7 is reassembled.
>
>The EFC-7 panel is rather thin so you may need to add a thick washer or
>spacer between the switch and the
>front panel.  With the spacer/washer in place, the switch protrudes 
>further
>outside the case, giving the switch
>more clearance inside, behind the panel.  I found my spacer (a white 
>plastic
>cylinder) in the screen door repair parts
>of my local hardware store.  I had to enlarge the hole but after that, it
>worked fine.  Depending on what you find,
>you may also need to shorten you spacer.
>
>When you have a good location for the switch, mark it.  Center punch the
>location.
>
>3) Likewise, find a good location for the 1/4" phone jack.  Mark it and
>center punch the location.
>
>4) Start with small drill bits, say 1/8" inch diameter and drill the 
>switch
>and jack holes.  Gradually increase the hole
>sizes until the switch and jack fit.
>
>5) Make sure you remove all the drill tailings and debur the holes.
>
>6) Mount the switch and jack.  Using your eyeballs (less recommended) or 
>an
>ohmmeter (more recommended),
>find the correct contacts on the switch.  Call them "common", "A", and 
>"B".
>Before tightening the switch, rotate
>it so that the correct contacts can be easily accessed.
>
>7) Connect the RING of the new jack to the RING of the existing jack.
>
>8) Disconnect the wire going to the TIP of the existing jack.  Connect it 
>to
>the "common" terminal on the switch.
>Don't overcook the switch when you solder the wire as you can melt the
>switch.  If possible, use the needle-nose
>pliers as a heat sink for the switch by using it to hold the terminal
>between the switch and the soldering point.
>
>8) Connect the "A" switch terminal to the TIP of the existing jack.
>
>9) Connect the "B" switch terminal to the TIP of the new jack.
>
>10) Reassemble the EFC-7.  Loop like crazy!
>
>Hope this helps (and is not insanely detailed)!  Let me know if you've any
>questions.
>
>Dennis Leas
>-------------------
>dennis@mdbs.com


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