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Hey kid, I found out that these are the details that actually make the difference between a crappy rack containing expensive gear and a pro rack. Some of the ideas I adhere to to avoid the former and reach the latter: i) no tape. Use cable ties, solutions using metal objects and screws where appropriate. ii) use self-built power-distribution strips. In the case of my main rack, there are three of them; one of them with 8 sockets with switch, screwed to the bottom of the rack. Two more, suited for being screwed to the wall, srewed to the sides, with custom cables (short ones). iii) avoid wallwarts at all costs. This can be done by a)cleverly shopping for gear, b) custom power supplys (don't know if this exists as a commercial solution, but one can integrate a transformer, rectifier and several of the low-power jacks to get rid of all external power supplies once and for all). iv) avoid external power supplies at all costs. This can be done by see above. If you absolutely have to use one (the Repeater comes to mind), be sure to construct some mimic to fasten it securely to the rack as described in i). v) make your cahles as short as possible. Have enough patch cables of different lengths ready. Plan the arrangement of the devices in the rack by minimizing cable lenths (especially makes sense in those 20+ HU racks). vi) floorboards are an issue of its own, and where I don't have extensive experience. In my case, a few devices are on the floor, and these are not wired or held in place in a professional way. I suggest you do better. vii) When connecting external components with more than two cables, think about some kind of multipin connector. Example: the keyboard rack with the SY85 and the Equinox connects to the main rack with 10 cables in total. A huge time saver is a custom multicore... viii) Tie your external components to the rack with a firmly attached string that is slightly shorter than your cables. Some of this actually extends over the point of your question. Sorry. Yet I can say of the things in my rack nothing will get pulled out. And using point viii), nothing gets disconnected, either. This leaves only the connections to the main mixer and the power feed for possible disconnection, but this won't happen as I don't move around the main rack onstage. Of course, I could still disconnect the cable from my bass's GK2B hexaphonic pickup... Rainer Straschill Moinlabs GFX and Soundworks - www.moinlabs.de digital penis expert group - www.dpeg.de The MoinSound Archives - www.mp3.com/moinlabs > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Sottilaro [mailto:sine@zerocrossing.net] > Sent: Dienstag, 16. Juli 2002 06:35 > To: Loopers-Delight@loopers-delight.com > Subject: THE RACK. Keeping to together... > > > Hey kids. > > So, I had a slight meltdown at the Santa Cruz loopfest. Upon > unpacking > tonight, I realized that heat in my car had softened the duct > tape that > was holding some wallwarts into their powerstrips, and they > fell out and > took some cables with them. It didn't matter much due to what I had > planned to do, but it brings me to the question: > > How do people keep it all together? It seems to me like > every other gig > SOMETHING is getting pulled out. I'm not the only one, I believe Ted > also had this issue at the festival. Usually, I can recover, > but with a > quick setup time, I just gave up. Regardless, it's a pain in > the ass at > any show. Is there a tip or trick anyone has for such things? Does > anyone know where one can get generic computer style power > cords in 1 or > 2 foot lengths? > > Mark Sottilaro >