Re: EFC-7 mod wiring diagram

["Doug Cox" <bickleypunk@pdq.net>]

Just now getting a chance to read this.  THANK YOU, Dennis.  Very much!

I'll start looking for the parts, and I'll keep you posted on my results.

Thanks again!

Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Leas <dennis@mdbs.com>
To: <Loopers-Delight@loopers-delight.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: EFC-7 mod wiring diagram


> Hi Doug!
>
> Yes, you'll want to drill two holes, in the EFC-7.  And that's a PHONE
jack
> rather than a PHONO jack.  Here's my attempt at detailed directions (from
> memory)...
>
> 1) Get all your parts before you begin work.  A SPDT switch is the 
>minimum
> configuration required.  A DPDT switch will be fine.  If you want to use
the
> modified EFC-7 as a footswitch, I highly recommend the switch listed
below.
>     recommended parts:
>         1) one push-on/push-off switch, try GC Electronics:
> http://www.gcwaldom.com/catalog.html
>             part no: 35-0490-0000.  This switch has an indicator that
> requires no power.  It is a little
>             pricey but worth it, IMHO.  The switch is also available from
> other distributors.
>         2) one high quality 1/4" phone jack, chassis mount.  I've had
> trouble with Radio Shack jacks.  I'd
>             recommend a Switchcraft manufactured jack.
>         3) insulated hook-up wire, 26 or 24 gauge, tinned
>         4) optional washers or spacer for switch (see directions)
>
>     tools:
>         1) drill, drill bits, center punch.
>         2) soldering iron, rosin-core solder
>         3) wire cutters, needle-nose pliers
>         4) ohmmeter, VOM, or continuity checker (optional)
>
> 2) Make sure your switch will fit in the EFC-7 case.  I mounted my switch
in
> the upper right corner.  The recommended switch is quite deep.  I.e., it
> requires a lot of clearance behind the panel.  Disassemble the
> EFC-7 case and try different switch locations.  Make sure the switch will
> fit when the EFC-7 is reassembled.
>
> The EFC-7 panel is rather thin so you may need to add a thick washer or
> spacer between the switch and the
> front panel.  With the spacer/washer in place, the switch protrudes
further
> outside the case, giving the switch
> more clearance inside, behind the panel.  I found my spacer (a white
plastic
> cylinder) in the screen door repair parts
> of my local hardware store.  I had to enlarge the hole but after that, it
> worked fine.  Depending on what you find,
> you may also need to shorten you spacer.
>
> When you have a good location for the switch, mark it.  Center punch the
> location.
>
> 3) Likewise, find a good location for the 1/4" phone jack.  Mark it and
> center punch the location.
>
> 4) Start with small drill bits, say 1/8" inch diameter and drill the
switch
> and jack holes.  Gradually increase the hole
> sizes until the switch and jack fit.
>
> 5) Make sure you remove all the drill tailings and debur the holes.
>
> 6) Mount the switch and jack.  Using your eyeballs (less recommended) or
an
> ohmmeter (more recommended),
> find the correct contacts on the switch.  Call them "common", "A", and
"B".
> Before tightening the switch, rotate
> it so that the correct contacts can be easily accessed.
>
> 7) Connect the RING of the new jack to the RING of the existing jack.
>
> 8) Disconnect the wire going to the TIP of the existing jack.  Connect it
to
> the "common" terminal on the switch.
> Don't overcook the switch when you solder the wire as you can melt the
> switch.  If possible, use the needle-nose
> pliers as a heat sink for the switch by using it to hold the terminal
> between the switch and the soldering point.
>
> 8) Connect the "A" switch terminal to the TIP of the existing jack.
>
> 9) Connect the "B" switch terminal to the TIP of the new jack.
>
> 10) Reassemble the EFC-7.  Loop like crazy!
>
> Hope this helps (and is not insanely detailed)!  Let me know if you've 
>any
> questions.
>
> Dennis Leas
> -------------------
> dennis@mdbs.com
>
>